Acorn Squash
I have a large
acorn
squash
plant from
last year. It's very
healthy, no flies or
aphids. The
problem is the
blossoms are ready
to open,

but never do. They
shrivel and die. Too
much water?? I water
every evening once a
day. Days here in Sacramento
are 85-100 degrees
every day.
Kenneth
A: Once a day is
certainly too often.
Exactly how often is
not up to me to
answer since I don't
know the maturity of
your plants, the
soil type, nor the
exact climatic
conditions.
What I would
recommend, however,
is for you to hold
off on watering
until you see the
plants begin to wilt
slightly. The idea
is to figure out how
many days you can go
between watering and
then wait that many
days less one,
before you water
again. When you do water, provide
enough to soak the
plants deeply.
And use a mulch to
maintain a more even
water level. If the
lower, oldest leaves
are the ones turning
yellow, yes, it
sounds like
simply a case of too
much water.
Acorn Squash
I have a large acorn squash plant from last year. I'ts very healthy, no flies or aphids. The problem is the blossoms are ready to open, but never do. They shrivel and die. Too much water?? I water every evening once a day. Days here in
Sacramento are 85-100 degrees every day.
Kenneth
A: Once a day is certainly too often. Exactly how often is not up to me to answer since I don't know the maturity of your plants, the soil type, nor the exact climatic conditions. What I would recommend, however, is for you to hold off on watering until you see the plants begin to wilt slightly. The idea is to figure out how many days you can go between waterings and then wait that many days less one, before you water again. When you do water, provide enough to soak the plants deeply. And use a mulch to maintain a more even water level. If the lower, oldest leaves are the ones turning yellow, yes, it sounds like simply a case of too much water.
Question: I
Would like to know if
you have ever heard of
anyone staking their
squash plants, yes
sort of like you would
a tomato plant. I have
noticed that my squash
plants look much like
a vine, in as much
they seem to grow very
long and just run all
over the place taking
up a lot of my garden
space, so this year I
have decided to stake
them and force them to
" Go
Vertical" Do you think this will
work?
David
Answer: Growing
your squash on a
trellis not only saves
garden space, it
increases the yield of
your plants. Any
wooden trellis will
do; most nurseries
carry them. Or you can
use 1-inch-mesh
chicken wire attached
to a wooden or metal
frame. Summer squash
varieties that vine,
such as 'Yellow
Straightneck' will
easily climb up the
supports. You can tie
the vines to the
trellis at 1-foot
intervals. Squash can
also be grown in
3'-4'-high wire
cages. If any fruits
grow so large they
need support, you can
tie old nylon
stockings to the
trellis to cradle them
Hello,
This is our first garden and we have a lot of
squash. Can you tell me when they are
ripe and ready for picking?
Mary
Hi Mary,
Summer squashes
of all types and varieties
should be harvested when
they reach a size of four
to six inches long and 1.5
to 2.5 inches in diameter.
This ensures high-quality
fruit and additional fruit
production.
High-quality winter squashes
and pumpkins are
associated with maturity,
so they should not be
harvested until they are
fully ripe.
Harvest winter squashes
after they change to their
expected color and after
their skin is thick enough
that a thumbnail doesn't
puncture the fruit when
you press on it.
If you plan on storing the
squash,
don't let them get hit by
frost or they will rot.
Also, leave 2 inches of
the stem attached for best
storing. Store only those
fruit that are free of
cuts, wounds, and insect
or disease damage.
Immediately after harvest,
the fruit should undergo a
ripening or curing process
to harden the shell. A
curing period of about two
weeks at 75 to 85 degrees
F with good circulation is
desirable. Storage should
then be at 50 to 70
degrees F with humidity
between 50 and 70 percent.
Enjoy your squash!